Do we really have to go through the “it’s cooked, it’s not cooked” debate?  The regular readers of this blog know the scoop on ceviche so I’ll bypass all the biochemistry and get right to the good stuff.  However, if you are a little shakey on exactly what’s going on, shoot me an email, john@hypersaline.net, and I’ll give you more information than you probably want and that’s why I’m avoiding the topic here.

Vermillion snapper ceviche

A bunch of cultures claim ceviche as their own but its heritage is pretty irrelevant other than as esoteric trivia.  There are nearly sextillion (that’s a 1 followed by 23 zeros, my favorite number!) versions of ceviche and they are all most assuredly not created equal.  I have had some of the nastiest concoctions labeled as ceviche and frequently the chef gobbles it up like it is the best thing ever.  There’s no accounting for taste I guess.  Everyone that I have served this recipe to over the years has loved it,  or was at least polite enough to hold back the gag reflex until I was out of earshot.  Well, both Kathy and I love it and it is always something we look forward to each summer.

As in all fish dishes it’s all about fresh.  Frozen fish can be used for ceviche but if you are accustomed to the good stuff you’ll be disappointed.  We almost always make ours from fish that we have caught, and usually within 3 days of them coming out of the water.  You can use any true saltwater fish but stay away from estuarine or freshwater fish.  Trust me on this, or at least email me for the full explanation, because the science behind this point doesn’t really belong on a food blog. White fleshed fish is typically used but even tuna makes good ceviche.  Obviously, fish have different flavor profiles so your finished ceviche will take on the character of whatever fish you choose.  I really like to use  Spanish mackerel or red snapper and they’re really not very much alike.  Step one is filleting the fish completely.  This is definitely not a bone friendly dish.  Dice the fillets into 1/4 to 1/2 inch pieces and a variety of size is good.  Cover the fish in freshly squeezed lime juice (don’t even think about using the bottled stuff), cover and refrigerate for 4 hours, stirring 2 or 3 times.  While the fish is “cooking” in the lime juice build your vegetable mix.  You want about equal amounts of fish and vegetables so use your fish supply as a gauge.  The vegetable mix is roughly 4 parts diced tomato (use good canned if you can’t get good fresh), 3 parts diced sweet onion, 2 parts scallion (mostly the green tops), half a part chopped cilantro and half a part minced or sliced Serrano peppers (seed them if you don’t want the heat). All of these can be adjusted to your taste but this balance works well for us. You need a liquid blend to bring all the flavors together and you’ll need enough to make the finished ceviche have a salsa consistency.   Until you get the hang of it, mix all liquid ingredients separately and then add to the vegetable until it is the consitence that you like.  Add 5 parts V-8 or tomato juice to 2 parts good olive oil and 2 parts of whatever dry white wine that you like and half a part Worcestershire sauce and half a part soy sauce. Mix the vegetables and liquid thoroughly and then season with just a bit of garlic salt, salt and fresh pepper to taste. Drain the fish from the lime juice and rinse WELL.    Rinse it with tap water but finish it with a rinse of good water.  I know it sounds anal as hell but it matters.  Mix fish with vegetables and you’re good to go immediately but it will be even better the second day.   We sometimes top servings with freshly cut avocado for an even more outstanding dish, but the ceviche is plenty good enough without it.

Our top secret security clearance trick on ceviche is Kathy’s home made chips.  They’re easy to make and make a world of difference over chips from a bag, even Julio’s.

Cut fresh corn tortillas into quarters and fry in corn oil until golden.  Drain them on paper towels and salt as soon as you take them out.  Don’t make too many, because you’re gonna eat em all!